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I would run it at least for a bit so the oil can fill the filter and circulate. The Honda manual says to run for 5 minutes in the water and then let it sit for a minute, check the dipstick and fill until it is at the full mark when the dipstick is dipped until it stops but not threaded in.

I would change the gas out for fresh, it'll make it far easier to get it going, I'm not sure of the oil capacity since it's a 2 stroke it continually uses oil so just fill the tank until it's full

Is it possible the cam went back on in the wrong position or something? that code indicates the sensor is outside the expected range, so it should have gone away when you put the new sensor on.

It should be on nearly every Mercedes power steering box up until sometime in the mid 90s if I recall correctly.

@trythistv thank you! Mine is 83, I'll be under it this weekend so will check.

I'm sure you'll have the drain plug.

Glad it helped you out!

That's why its been especially hot this year.

If you sit on the ski, grab the cluster and pull it straight toward you. A little soapy water sprayed around the outside of the cluster helps.

It must be bottoming out on something before the gasket contacts the filter head. Is the timesert screwed all the way on the filter bolt?

I'm not sure if I ever did a video about the goldenrod filter. I think I mention it in a video, but never went into detail about it. I should do that!

It has made a huge difference on every machine I've done it to!

Glad I could help!

No, but if I can remember to, I can pull one out and measure it.

I can't see why not, unless the factory setup has a water sensor or something fancy you don't want to lose.

@@trythistv thank you for getting back to me. My 8 is from 1995 and does not have anything fancy like that. However, I now see why I don't find info on RUclips about people doing this: the amount of space there is to put it (at least on an 8) is limited and the 3" long tractor filter I bought won't orient properly with the fuel hoses. I think I can solve it by using a longer length of hose that runs from the carb toward the back of the motor, then run behind it, then back up toward where the fuel connector is; there is more room along the port side of the motor to position the filter. I would have to use some zip ties to keep the line from getting chewed up by the flywheel. Before I resort to that, I have an order of 90 degree fuel filters, which are mesh like the OEM (I understand this allows more flow) on the way and I am going to see if they will work in the space left by removing the old filter. I can always use the tractor filter on my tractor, lol. I just never liked Mariner's OEM set up: difficult to postion the filter cup in the bowl and not then cross thread the plastic threads when screwing it "up", which has some evidence of already happening a little bit. I will circle back when I get the chance to try the other filters out.

Sounds like you've got a good plan!

@@trythistv thank you. Finger crossed, LOL.

What part number is the fuel pump you need? I might have a place that would have one cheaper

With that kind of list of mods, you're quite likely going to have to get comfortable reading spark plugs. There isn't really an algorithm or anything to select the correct jets that I'm aware of.

I would be hesitant to skip the priming, worst case you use a little extra oil for a while and foul plugs, best case it bleeds out any air that got into the system while it was open to change the o ring

This is the only seal I am aware of that will cause a leak, but there are other small o rings on each piston that could cause it to not pump oil. I haven't seen those cause an issue yet though

Is your battery charging while the engine is running? Any cables corroded or loose terminals on the battery? Being in the water could put extra load on the ride motor, and any bad connection could make it throw codes

@@trythistv yeah, it is charging. I checked the codes with my map tuner and it showed it had a code 153 stored. It didn't show any of the codes that popped up on the dash. I put the details of my problem on Greenhulk yesterday as I have gotten random codes 151, 159, 163 on my 2021 FX SVHO

I am thinking it has something to do with control unit in Ride. The motor is fine, but something is causing an intermittent failure. The wire harness and connectors look like new. The MpatunerX I have ahs a code reader and the only code stored 151. The stuff that displayed on the dash didn't log into the ECU.

It could very well be something going wrong with the control unit, I'm not sure exactly how smart that is, but it could be almost a second ecu and communication problems would cause erratic behavior and error codes. The low voltage is my confusion. In order for the voltage to drop there has to be a large load on the battery, it could be the position sensing portion of the ride motor is failing and the ride control ecu thing is trying to move the motor to get the bucket into the proper position and it's already against the stop so the motor is just locked rotor essentially perhaps.

@@trythistv the voltage drop is after it dies and struggles to start. The different control unit seemed to fix it, but the control unit is from the wrong model and throws a TDE ERR on the dash. No codes, but reduced power.

Yes indeed. Old Seadoo 587cc machine.

I know a lot of people like that method, and I can see some advantages to it as well. For myself with the amount of machines I work on and the variety, it adds some extra time, and does not account for an engine that has been overfilled or underfilled by the last guy who worked on it.

@@trythistv Thanks for the reply. We changed the oil today on the Tr-1 engine and did it the way I described above. Before the oil change, NO OIL was showing on the dipstick, which was alarming because the week before, there was oil there. Anyway, we sucked out the oil from the reservoir and the crankcase via the tube. Pulled exactly 3qts out. We did 1.5qts in the top end and 1.5qts in the reservoir. After, the oil tank dipstick showed just slightly overfilled. It seems to be VERY tricky to get an accurate oil check on this thing and we're very worried about overfilling. What's your reccomention how the oil level should be checked? We've heard the Yamaha manual method is incorrect. Thanks for your advice!!

I've always done it very similar to the manual, start it up long enough to circulate oil everywhere, remove dipstick, wipe off oil, reinstall dipstick and then remove it and ensure the level is between the two marks on it, think of them not as full and empty, but rather a "do not exceed" in either direction. Ideally right in the middle, but it will not cause harm as long as it is above the lower mark and below the upper mark on the dipstick.

Oops correction. Sump drain hose and not crankcase hose. There is no such thing as crankcase hose.

@@pumpkin971 I agree that a ski should not be run for extended periods on the hose, the pump is unloaded and the bearings aren't often designed to support everything. I will warm skis up if I can put them in the water and ride them around in circles at idle (only a few minutes otherwise its too hot though) The extra little hole down in the oil tank cavity where the dipstick is does prove challenging to hit, but getting all that oil out is nice. I still do get some out of the sump drain hose even if I have extracted everything possible from the oil tank. Total is usually between 3.5 and 4 quarts per machine, so 3.59-3.7 sounds spot on to me. When you punch the filter, don't go too deep, and double check you don't knock the bypass valve out, if you punch dead center you can knock it out, I typically punch them off on an edge of the top to avoid such a problem.

Awesome, glad you found the problem! Sorry this was the problem.

A slight bit overfull probably wouldn't cause issues that quickly, if it was high and flooded the air filter to get down to the level its at now then it could cause some weird issues. Plugs seem to be a fairly common thing, My Honda tends to foul one or two the first time I start it for the season, but then is good until the next year. My Sea-Don't fouls them at the first start and sometimes once more during the season.

My opinion is that boats haven't had air filters for decades, PWCs didn't for a long time (no 2 stroke had an air filter that I'm aware of), New Sea-Doos don't have an air filter from the factory, and never have. Kawasaki hasn't put them on that I'm aware of either. Its just Yamaha and Honda that used air filters on their PWCs. The lake/ocean is not really a dusty environment for a jetski to be in, so how much is an air filter going to catch? I've personally seen and serviced rental PWCs with over 2000 hours that did not have an air filter, and they did not consume oil, have low compression or any other issues that could be attributed to the air filter being removed. I say take it out and see how she performs.

Maybe, but it is a bit more consistent than acid that might eat unevenly or get pooled up in hard to reach areas. Either way, as long as you keep the algae and scum off somehow thats what matters.

I forget that trick all the time. I use it regularly for seadoo wear rings, so much so that I just keep them in the freezer, but bearings and other press fit type things it doesn't click to do the same! Thanks for the reminder!

I haven't done that with a dd-wrt router, or any personal router, but I know those type of functionality is possible, I did something like that once with fail2ban (I think) on a server online that was getting hammered by one specific country trying to brute force a login or something. I don't recall 100% of what I did, or exactly what I used to accomplish it, but what you're looking for is possible.

@@trythistv I need to stop it at the router because I don't trust Windows firewall and my nginx logs grew to 9GB in just one week! Normally it averages 250GB over a whole year.

You're connecting the large terminals and getting nothing? I would check if the bottom solenoid is getting a good 12v connection from the battery or if it drops out, could be where the large nut on the solenoid that is fed 12v has some corrosion or something.

I don't recall there being anything like that in there, but it has been a little bit since I've had one apart.

The ones I used were a Sierra 18-5817 with angled bracket, I haven't seen the flat bracket style used on tilt/trim pumps so the angled is very likely what you want, here is a link to the exact ones I used: amzn.to/4bvcysh Keep in mind you will need 2 of those, one for up and one for down. Hope this helps!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Close. There is air pressure fed into the remote oil tank to keep the primary oil tank full, with a 2psi check valve to make sure the pressure does not get too high, but the actual oil pump is an electronic solenoid pump that pumps oil regardless of there being pressure in the system anywhere. If it relied purely on the pressure in the tank, the engine would starve for oil at startup or any time the oil tank was opened to fill. You can disconnect the air line, remove the remote reservoir, and still run the engine without issue until the primary oil tank runs dry, or run the prime procedure with a scan tool or using the onboard method to cycle the pump with the engine off and no pressure anywhere in the system. However, that slight positive pressure in the system could be a major factor in the o-ring in the pump leaking as it ages.

46mm if I recall correctly

@@trythistv Gracias Maestro por su respuesta, Saludos desde Centro América 🙂👍

I've got 230k on the clock, unsure on the actual mileage because it's evidently a factory reman engine, I know it's got an offset key in the cam gear already, and is in need of a new timing chain very soon, I just need to find the time to do it, I suspect that will make it start and run even better once I get that done.

Glad it helped!

You're welcome!

Glad to help!

I have done a diesel purge, as well as new injector nozzles, it has always had a more pronounced tap but no clear cause. I need to roll in a new timing chain soon, Its had an offset key since I got it. I'm hoping a new chain will help it out!

With the intake and exhaust empty, getting it out of the cylinders and any intake piping or intercooler if it's supercharged, and you should be ready to start it up briefly, and then check that the oil isn't water contaminated. It's not awful as long as you catch it before it hydrolocks while running, which you obviously have. Hope you can get it going again!

Ugh they updated the product page. It is supposed to be a M3x36mm ID o-ring, the link takes you to a m1x1.5 or something. Try this link instead: amzn.to/3RqKyh1

Awesome success story! Thanks for sharing! The document available for download on the website (trythistv.com/cruise-control/) has pictures of what some of the solder joints end up doing. Its very hard to see without some kind of magnification, Touching up every joint is the easy way.

I don't recall having seen that style personally yet, There has to be some way to remove the cover or relay

It'll make a big difference!

Glad to share!

I'm going to play with this stuff a bit more, I haven't seen anything work as fast, not even straight bleach. Once the mold gets started its a losing battle, so using whatever you can to stop or slow it down is quite likely better than just letting it go, even if it is a little rough on the vinyl or the stitching.

I need to do my timing chain, I know it is stretched a bit, and already has an offset key too. I just have to find the time to do it now.

Sometimes. It depends on if I feel it has run its course and the machine is as good as I can make it I will sell it. or if I have become attached to the project sometimes I keep them for a while until it makes me sad that it isn't getting the love and use it deserves. I've still got a bunch of the projects I've made videos on, I have more I want to do with some of them, I do have some hondas for sale right now actually though lol, they rarely need much, and aren't too exciting to make video after video on.